Strangers in the night
For already the second year in a row, Wildhood organized its infamous Night Patrol, a nighttime ride through the Flemish “plat pays” as Jaques Brel used to sing. Last year, the Waasland region hosted the event, this year the Antwerp region was more than happy to welcome those brave enough to head into the darkness of night. Pavé Cycling Café in the Lange Koepoortstraat in Antwerp was to be the base camp for the evening, if not that the Belgian government, only the day before the event, adopted some new Covid 19-measures that would impact the organization and the original plan. Nevertheless, we were quick to find a solution. Riders would still be able to register at Pavé, but there would be a ravito somewhere along the trail instead of the usual post-ride conviviality.
Riders started drizzling in as soon as 6:00 pm, we decided to drop last years group start and made sure that everyone would be leaving in small groups. Sofie, Dimi, Wim and I left Pavé around 6:30 pm. We wanted to ride out while there was still some light outside. As Pavé is located near the heart of the historical Antwerp city center, we first had to get out of the city before our adventure could start on on those dark roads waiting for us. And so we made our way through the medieval cobbled streets towards the mighty river that gave the city its riches. Pretty soon, before we made our way out of town, we passed the old quays where the following day the Tour of Flanders would start. The Schelde river glistened in the evening light and greeted us with a chill as if to tell us that soon nighttime would be upon us. We would more or less follow her curves, sometimes cycling right along its banks, at other times cycling more inland or following her sister river the Rupel, but nevertheless steadily going upstream towards Temse before returning to Antwerp.
We felt like modern-day sailors, having to navigate through unknown lands towards an unknown destination, not knowing what to expect. Not knowing what and who we would encounter, our only guide being our GPS-units and bike lights. Maybe pirates would also be waiting to ambush us! The sun started setting on the Left Bank of De Schelde as the night got ready to engulf us. It does take some getting used to the fading light and the advent of nighttime. Having worn glasses most of my life, and getting a bit older after all, my eyes definitely needed some adjusting.
Bike ts went on. Each and every one of the night patrollers had their own distinct set-up of lights. Some of them went for the big lights, others rather had two smaller sets, some riders went for the flashing rear lights, and then others were marking their territory with some ingenious lightning effects. It felt like Christmas was upon us, as all I could see were those lights going up and down, flashing away, twisting and turning and going wherever those gravel machines were taking them. Suddenly, we turn into what seems to be a small forest and the streetlights are gone. The darkness is all around us, and all you can do is hope those bike lights will do the job
A clearing gives way to the first single track, littered with roots and zigzagging its merry way to wherever. My cycling buddies seem to have night vision, flying over those roots, without fear of a crash or running into a werewolf. Soon I lose sight of them, already imagining myself having to do the 80 km track all by myself. As the red lights of the others fade into the night, I’m trying to find my way out of this maze of trees, branches and roots. Another lost soul who taak a wrong turn joins me. We follow the #philitrack towards the edge of this woodland (or is just a city park?), where Sofie and the rest of the gang is waiting for us. What a welcome sight!
It takes a whole different level of skill to navigate during the nighttime, off road, on gravel paths, fields and forests, with limited natural light – where’s that moon when you need it the most? The bike lights are only giving so much light, no matter how much lumen you might have. Not that there is not enough light when you put the bike lights full blast – but better save that battery so don’t go full Monty all the time. But whatever you do, the lights cast a long shadow which gives you a totally different impression on what is in front . One of these days, I will do this ride during daytime, and the ride will probably be just a breeze (yes you can still download a slightly different version on our Wildhood Komoot)!
The days leading up to the Night Patrol have been quite dry, so the ground is fairly solid, not to say there are not some muddy patches where we have to wade through, but all in all it’s a dry ride. So, after some 52 km, we come across the supply post. The Pavé / Bike Project crew, Wendy and Daan, parked their camper on a quite road halway down the track. They had a deliscious fresh made offering of some great pumpkin soup with baguette and some classic sports bars for us night riders. The stop makes a welcome rest and the opportunity to catch up with some of the other cyclists. We only see happy and smiling faces.
Quickly, we are on our way again. We had no idea we were so close to the township of Temse where we’ll have to cross the river, before heading back towards the city of Antwerp. I have already crossed this bridge numerous times with the car, but never with the bicycle. It is said bombs are hidden in its pillars! On the other side of the river, the left bank has some exiting single tracks waiting for us. At that point, our eyes are well adjusted and we conquer them with ease. Except the last one, the nasty one. It winds through some dense bushes, roots sticking out all over the place. Quickly, we just have to stop. It looks like some hurricane wreaked havoc here, unrooted trees blocking the trail at every turn. It’s a push-a-bike/carry-a-bike kind of trail. The one you love to hate and the one you always go back to. Like some passionate lover.
The ride finally ends at the Sint-Annatunnel, a pedestrian and bicycle tunnel under the river Schelde. With its 572 meter and 31,57 meters below the ground, it connects the Left Bank to Antwerp. And so we go down, on the wooden escalators, back to the city. Out of the tunnel, you immediately find yourself back in the city. It’s a sad view , because of Covid-19 all bars are closed, so after some chit-chat, it’s back to our cars or to our homes. No post-ride stories no post-ride beers.
But …we patrolled the night and found it to be right up our sleeves. We have become creatures of the night and we’ll be back!
Words: The Bearded Mamil
Photography: Philippe Michiels